Відео

Thanks for your comment - are you feeing any better? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars thanks Mike. I am feeling good. I have a stent removal scheduled for today and then I’m free! I believe I am trying a first start this Saturday.

@@TonyLiveTV Good luck with both the start and the getting well bit. Mike

You haver reminded me to get a spare CPS for the SL55AMG because that is indeed something that can leave you stranded. Why would leaving the car 30-45mins have avoided a tow? Do they reset when the car is cold? Mike

I found out from MB forum, usually after the engine is cools down, the car will start and that exactly what happened to my car after towing to my house car indeed did start. I initially also thought something was reset. Do not know, I think just cold engine will allow the car to start. The biggest difficulty in replacing the CPS was the access to it. I replaced mine by feel without seeing the CPS.

Just looked back at that video and added chapters to make it easier to skip to parts that might be relevant. Did you have a problem with your ballast resistors? Mike

Agreed - I think one of the biggest problems is that these cars are now cheap enough to be affordable to people who cant really afford to service them. For example changing the ABC fluid regularly will do wonders for the longevity of the system. Mike

yes - I just drove my SL55 to London and back and what an exhilarating drive it was! One of the functions of the ABC was to make it easier getting in and out of the car.... another was to be able to raise the car manually to enable snow chains to be used. If I ever sell mine, I'm sure I will miss it too!. Mike

Hi - i'm sure Tony (Mr 560SL) will have a video on the subject, and if not, drop him a line and he will be able to help: www.youtube.com/@TonyLiveTV/videos Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars unfortunately his videos are only with the engine out so still not clear if it comes out from the top or bottom. I did ask him but seems like he’s not sure either.

Hi - looking at his video (ua-cam.com/video/azs-zjyIkAE/v-deo.html) shows the dimensions of the pump and reading the comments below that video, it would appear to come out form the top after removing the fan shroud and alternator. Sorry I cant be of more help. Mike

Glad the vid was useful. Mike

Phew....glad the video helped. Mike

Yep - more likes would be nice.

Hi - sorry to read you are having a problem. Is the light on permanently…or does it come on when oil is hot…..or intermittently….or when you turn a particular direction? No harm in changing to 15W40 oil but if problem persists, you probs lot need to take off oil pan to see if oil pick up is clogged. Mike

At time code 15.17 in the video I show you where I got the crimpers + the correct jaws for this job. The crimpers are Paladin and the jaws are no. 2033. Mike

Hi - maybe this video will help you? ua-cam.com/video/WRmk7a2G3pA/v-deo.html Mike

Hello Simon - sorry to read you have a problem with your wipers. I have not (as yet) done a video on the subject but seem to remember that once the dash is out, the wiper mechanism is dead easy to get to. What is the EXACT problem? Mike

Thanks for the prompt reply Mike. It’s quite a long story. The wipers seized up over a year ago and I took it to local garage. They removed the glove compartment and then didn’t want to do the job of taking the full dash out to replace the wiper mechanism I’ve bought a replacement mechanism from SL shop which cost £1000 The garage then left the car outside for about a year. I didn’t realise as I focused on other things and in that time the brakes and seized up and the fuel pump failed so I’ve just had those things sorted out so we’re back on the road now so I’m just turning my attention to the wipers. Another local garage have said they can have a go at the dash but they can’t quote because they don’t know how long it’s going to take them so I was just doing some research and your video is really helpful. I’m just wondering how long you would estimate a garage that hadn’t done this kind of work before might take to do it the other thing is that I can actually hear the motor running And I think it must be disconnected from the wiper mechanism and I’m wondering whether that’s possible to do without removing the dash through the glove compartment so any thoughts on the above would be really appreciated thank you.

I’d love to think I could do it myself, but with work and family et cetera just can’t see how I’d find the time and I’d get so far and then the car would be off the road until someone else put it back together again. I would imagine.

....just goes to show that the old ones are the best. Glad the video helped. Mike

I can totally relate we just fixed ours now😅

Hi - sorry to hear you have a red oil pressure light on. It could be a faulty oil pressure sensor or.....it could be that you actually have low oil pressure. If it was me, I would: 1. Check the oil pressure sensor wiring and change the oil pressure sensor to see if that cures the problem. 2. If the problem persists, I would take off the oil pan and check that the oil pick up filter is not clogged up leading to reduced oil flow. 3. If the oil pick up is clear, next step would be to ascertain whether the oil pump is working. Good luck - let me know how you get on. Mike

Hi - congrats on picking up a cheap set of Euro lights...if there is just light damage, you can potentially get away with using a good quality chrome paint like the Bosny to touch up. If the damage is heavy, I would consider getting them re-chromed as shown in the video below: ua-cam.com/video/bG7fYWw661w/v-deo.html Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars so I decided to rechrome them.. not cheap to say the least. I also ordered new glass. They should look brand new once complete at least - and at about 30% of the cost of buying new.

@@TheAcarr6 Yes...not cheap getting an R107 up to scratch but usually worth the cost in the end. Mike

Hi - the easiest way is to swap the unit for a known good unit and see if the issue goes away....but the correct unit for a 1973 may be difficult to find. Where are you based? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars in France

​@@NicolasdeBreteuil Quel dommage, if your were closer, I would suggest swapping the unit from the car I am currently working on. Another alternative could be to bypass the ignition control module using the Petronix electronic ignition: www.benzworld.org/threads/pertronix-install-with-and-without-switchgear.1714668/ Mike

Thanks - it can be super quick finding those parasitic battery draws with a thermal camera. I think many of the problems with the many R230's is that owners have a parasitic draw on the consumer battery that they are not aware of...and thus the alternator is constantly working hard to try and maintain the charge in the consumer battery. Mike

"Caps drying out/degrading" may indeed be a contributory factor in these fires BUT the question to ask, is why do caps in some R230's degrade faster than in others? The main reasons for capacitors degrading and reduced lifetime is: "excessive application of operating voltage, reverse voltage, or ripple current"... When the BCM's were originally designed, it would have been difficult to test what happens to the 20-40yr life span of a capacitor under abnormal conditions like - incorrect battery, constant flat battery, jump starting voltage spikes etc. I guess if I bought an R230 with unknown history, I would be tempted to take out the BCM and have the capacitors replaced as a precaution. Other hacks like adding an inline fuse don't really address the root cause. Mike

Hi - no not yet. What year is your 280SL? Mike

Hi - nice set of cars. I bought my Autel Maxidas DS808 on eBay and unfortunately the seller never transferred ownership to me via Autel which means I am unable to subscribe for software updates. The software version on my machine has a bug which does NOT allow you to calibrate the suspension on an SL55. I had to use DAS Star at a local Independent. A chines company recent sent me a Launch elite 2 scanner to test and my plan is to see if it is possible to calibrate the suspension using this device. If it works, I'll do a video. Does your SL55 currently have any suspension problems? What is the problem with your R129 suspension? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Thanks a mill for the reply. I have been burrowing around and apparently the Autel Elite Pro II will do everything. Unfortunately it’s £1749 but still can’t get an answer as to whether it’ll work on my SL600. The 600 appears to have a similar hydraulic suspension system to the ABC on the SL55. Unfortunately I took it to a company ages ago that I thought would be able to rebuild the rear suspension and get the ride height etc correct. How wrong was I. They replaced various bits and pieces but couldn’t get the car level. They employed another ‘expert’ who also failed after many months. He replaced a load of very expensive bits and told me a special tool was required to set the height. A recent friend who is a retired Mercedes mechanic believes the ride height and all the other stuff should be able to be done using the Autel and the special tool bit is BS ! The car is a year 2000 R129 SL600. I’ve written to Autel about this. Also I have the airbag light on and it won’t get through an MOT. Again, like an idiot, I sent it to the same place and it’s just a nightmare. What I’ve realised is that they didn’t have any diagnostic kit at all and were winging it at my expense. They managed to borrow a system, god knows what, but it wasn’t up to the task. I’m thinking of getting the car back and running it through the Autel which I’ll buy. Are you familiar with the R129 airbag system? Note the last time this happened it was a loose connection under the passenger seat. Took 10 mins to fix ! I’ve learned a lesson here and never again.

Thanks - hopefully we will soon be ready to connect up the brakes and drive shaft and get this car moving for the first time in decades. Mike

From memory, I got the lower rubber strip from the eBay source. Mike

Hola - W = reserve indicator light (Green/Blue) T = Ground (Brown) - (ground symbol) G = Gauge (Black/Blue) Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Excelente Maestro, agradezco mucho tu respuesta, me sirve mucho para confirmar mis conexiones , Saludos desde Nicaragua

@@luisarturogarciaarmijo9117 My pleasure. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Gracias Maestro Mike, seguiré tu canal🙂👍

Have a look at the video below - it is a detailed guide of how to fit the lower rails and where we got the parts - time code 22.06 shows where we got the rubber from. ua-cam.com/video/NmZwyxj79kg/v-deo.html Mike

Thanks for your comment. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Thank U2. 😎

...yes addiction can be an expensive habit especially when Mercedes is involved.

Hi - If it was me, I would use an accurate set of calipers to measure the outer diameter of the wire....and then I would count the copper strands to see if there were 16 or 32. Have a look at the link below and it will give you a good idea: www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/c/cable You have two basic choices - 'standard' or 'thin wall'. I used the latter (32/0.20, 1.0mm², 16.5A - cable OD 2.0mm) when I made up the wiring loom for the red 280Sl because you need to crimp a special plug onto it. To fix the folding roof on my SL55, I used standard 14/0.30, 1.0mm², 8.75A - cable OD 2.6mm. Slightly thicker because the wires are bent every time the roof goes up and down. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars would it matter if the amp rating was high? I have a 27amp cable suitable for charging circuits it says

@@Amg641 No not really - it just means the wire might be a bit thicker. It would matter if it was too low a rating and the cable melted. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars would you know where terminal 15 N10/10 is located? And is N10/10 the actual drivers side sam unit? Let me know please

@@Amg641 No sure - I was trying to get hold of a wiring diagram as I don't have one. What issue are you trying to fix? Mike

Good info - what the name of the Rad restorer in London? Mike

Thanks - how is your car going? Mike

Thanks for your comment. Mike

Thanks for your comment and good luck with your remaining work. You probably know all this already but: 1. The original fuel pump is almost identical to the one below: www.torqen.uk/brands/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-510/fuel/69954-electric-fuel-pump-fuel-injection-oem-280z-280zx-75-83-200-696.html ua-cam.com/video/srvBSoYbUK8/v-deo.html 2. The original fuel pressure regulator is very similar to the 'Standard PR148'...although my experience thus far has not been that great: ua-cam.com/video/wG4UtnAoYCs/v-deo.html One subscriber mentioned that I should redo this test with fuel/Chemtool...which I will get round to doing at some stage. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars I think, I commented in one of the other of your videos, that I was lucky enough to find a used fuel pump at very reasonable price.Also, my original pump is some where in my garage and if I remember correctly, it did leak and most probably needs a new the O-ring. If I could only find a new replacement O-ring. Hopefully my regulator if any, may need only cleaning. Here in San Francisco area we have earthquakes and fires but climate a bit kinder to these old cars. But thank you for the links to pump and regulators. However, I like your idea of having permanently installing a fuel gauge. A short video with your usual links to the items for it would be of a great help. Thank you Mike, your videos are very inspiring and encouraging to leave my computer and do the actual repairs. I managed to fix and pass smog on my daily driver 97 E320, and soon will tackle the rear wheel bearing and possible ,hope not the timing chain in my 84 300TDT. Then of course the 450SL. Siamak

@@siamak1 I have one of those fuel pump O rings. I think I mention at the end of the fuel pump video what size it is and where I got it (ebay). Good luck with the repairs. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Thanks. I could not find your eBay seller. But based on the size of 2mmx33mm id, I found a seller from China. The bigger task now would be actually finding the pump in my garage. haha

Thanks - that took me by surprise! I'm looking forward to your first start up. I'm guessing she'll run like a dream. Next up, Euro lights and bumpers and you'll have a $50k car....Mike

Yes - I remember the job I had removing the injectors from my 450sl part car! It is so often the case that you refurb one thing and everything else looks rubbish....I keep thinking that I probably should have taken the engine out and repainted the engine bay....but there are only so many hours in the day. What did you pay for a new set of injectors I wonder? Mike

I got Bosch fuel injectors they were $28.5 each vs the Merc ones which were $52. Add in the nozzle holder at $1.25 and seal for the same amount. Be well and hopefully the rain will abate, but then it would not be an English summer :)

@@MJR67 Wow...that is a fantastic price for the fuel injectors. The ones for older D Jetronic cost over £100...if you can get them. Mike

You mean they dont light at all...or they give an error? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars No light at all. I had at one point LED inserts for original housing and those didn't have a load module so they blinked and shut off with an error but this time no light at all.

@@TheIntrepidus Did you watch the whole video up to 8.50 time code? I had the same problem initially and solved it with a simple hack. What terrible sound that video has! Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars yeah, i watched entire video. I have opened the entire setup which is in ABS plastic and most of the contacts were melted and or cracked. I had to mold new holders with Isocyanate and baking soda (free trick to instantly harden quick-fix glue). When I made everything stable, both lamps work now and no warning 👍🤓 Thank you for your concern!

@@TheIntrepidus Result! Mike

It is good that you got the high idle on your car fixed...but is there a reason he didn't just replace the icv? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars He did not replace the ICV because I think he said it’s difficult to find a new unit and that the new unit is very costly. It does run better now and it seems to be more peppy when I step on the gas pedal. BTW, my turn signal flasher is not working. I checked the fuse box and the fuse seems to be good fuse. Any suggestion what it could be? Thx

Thank you. My hope is that these videos will enable people to fix and service their own R230's and not be intimidated by the complexity of these cars. Mike

Hi sorry to hear about our brake issue. What make model and year car do you have? Mike

Hi - sorry to hear about your window issue. What is the make model and year of the car? Electric or manual windows? Mike

Morning thanks for your reply! Its an 86 300sl with electric windows

@@jamesscoging0612 Nice car. it is certainly possible for the window mechanism to require lubrication before the window goes up smoothly. I am not 100% sure how the 300sl windows attach, but if it is anything like my old 1985 SL, the lubrication (and fitting) should be something you can tackle yourself. Is the door car still off? If not, the video below shows you how to remove it. Mike ua-cam.com/video/OM2P2oDChyg/v-deo.html

If you are going to attempt this your self, the video below may help you - especially the last two thirds. Mike

Hi - I am no expert but just drop me a comment here with what you need and I will try to help. What make model and year is the car? Mike

Hi - I'm no expert but just drop me a comment here and let me know what car you have and what the issue is. Mike

Thanks - do you have a R230? Mike

​yes ​, I have a 350 with the m272 and 7gtronic. And also a Cteck, but allways charge accesory battery outside the car 😊

Sorry to read you have a problem. Did anything happen in the run up to this issue? eg changed fuel filter, started to run rough etc etc.......or did you just wake up one day and the car wouldn't start? The problem described in my video only applies to petrol cars. What year is your car? Mike

Glad it helped you....maybe you could give the vid a thumbs up and help others to find it. Mike

Danke - meine Mutter ist Deutsche. We used to live next door to Holland near a place called Venlo. Did you see the clutch video below? ua-cam.com/video/TrHN4NjS0fE/v-deo.html The clutch arrangement on the Fiat 238 is really unusual. There is a metal rod which runs through the engine and when this starts to wear down, you start losing clutch. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars ganz ❤liches Dankeschön, der info! ;)